This class differed from the bead making in a few different ways. The glass used here was borosilicate glass (~30 COE) in solid rods. No mandrels were used this time around. Glass was manipulated on the rod of origin or using a glass punty (a glass rod used to transfer your work). Borosilicate or boro glass isn't as "soft" as moretti glass so you don't have to worry as much about gravity until you have a large "glob" of melted glass. Glass is then flattened by using either a press or by touching the heated glass to a metal plate and pressing down.
To create a two color swirl effect, a blob of a secondary color is added to the main piece (after securing a punty to one end). The glass is heated and then the punty and main rod are twisted in opposite directions. To get a tapered effect, heat one end of the glass blob and gently pull both rods apart.
Cold seal - Adding a non-heated end of glass to a hot piece of glass. This created a brittle, temporary "joint" to manipulate the glass you are working with. The finished piece can be detahed by hitting the glass sharply at the joint.
Chill-marks - A fingerprint-like impression in the glass caused by touching hot glass to a cold surface such as a press plate. These can be removed by gently heating the piece.
These were our two pendants created in the class. The leaf shape was done by the stretching process described above and then a leaf impression press was used to get the veining.
Feilinn's pendants:
The light blue glass looks more clear after firing and setting in the kiln. The "dots" of color in the leaf pendant didn't stretch as much as I had hoped either.
Sergei's pendants:
He had one of his "dots" on the flat pendant break off during firing. When added raised dots, you use the same process as described in the bead making class but just do a gentle firing to even the dots to nice half circles sitting on the pendant flat. If the dots are not partially melted on correctly, they can pop off or set oddly when firing.
To create a two color swirl effect, a blob of a secondary color is added to the main piece (after securing a punty to one end). The glass is heated and then the punty and main rod are twisted in opposite directions. To get a tapered effect, heat one end of the glass blob and gently pull both rods apart.
Cold seal - Adding a non-heated end of glass to a hot piece of glass. This created a brittle, temporary "joint" to manipulate the glass you are working with. The finished piece can be detahed by hitting the glass sharply at the joint.
Chill-marks - A fingerprint-like impression in the glass caused by touching hot glass to a cold surface such as a press plate. These can be removed by gently heating the piece.
These were our two pendants created in the class. The leaf shape was done by the stretching process described above and then a leaf impression press was used to get the veining.
Feilinn's pendants:
Sergei's pendants:
He had one of his "dots" on the flat pendant break off during firing. When added raised dots, you use the same process as described in the bead making class but just do a gentle firing to even the dots to nice half circles sitting on the pendant flat. If the dots are not partially melted on correctly, they can pop off or set oddly when firing.
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